
That dotted line on my state map had been calling me since the
day I bought my motorcycle. I thought the scenic byway running
through the Killdeer Mountains, not too far from Lake Sakakawea
in North Dakota, would be part of a great weekend ride. So last
weekend, everything finally came together and I went for it.
I headed out from Bismarck on Saturday afternoon after tinkering
with the bike to make sure it was ready to go. I headed West along
the Interstate until exit 147, where I turned off into the rolling
hills and prairies.
I stopped for a break near Beulah and continued on through the
small towns of Zap, Golden Valley, Dodge, and Halliday. This part
of the state is extremely beautiful, if not somewhat forgotten
by the rest of the state. The traffic was light and everything
was great.
I stayed over in Halliday at a friend's house. She was anxious
to get a ride on the bike, so she scrounged up a helmet and jacket
and we rode to Killdeer for supper.
Sunday the weather was great, aside from the intense 30-40 mph
winds from the southeast. I headed west to Killdeer, fueled up
at a Cenex, and questioned how smart it really was to ride in
that terrible wind.
Cruising north on the scenic byway out of Killdeer, I was almost
disappointed. And then I rounded a curve and the full grandeur
of all-out badlands was spread before me. I slowed down and tried
to take in the great view.
Suddenly, a steep descent appeared and I snaked down into a valley
between breathtaking buttes. Dare I say.... a curvy road in North
Dakota? The next few miles were intense. I was struggling to navigate
the curves, take in the scenery, and keep the bike upright in
the wind.
I stopped in a valley and snapped a few photographs before continuing
northward. I neared New Town, where I would turn around and head
back South and East, into the wind. Just before getting to New
Town, I passed the Four Bears Casino and rode across the big lake
on the infamous Four Bears Bridge.
The wind made the extremely narrow bridge particularly frightening.
This two-lane bridge is so narrow that the mirrors of trucks nearly
hit as they pass. They are building a wider replacement for the
bridge right next to the existing one. I noticed one of the piers
for the new bridge is in place.
After surviving the bridge, I drove up to the top of a hill on
the east side of the bridge. The wind up there was frightening.
Initially, I parked the bike perpendicular to the wind. The bike
was shaking so badly I was worried it would fall off the side
stand, so I reoriented it into the wind.
Looking down on the lake from high above, I saw sand blowing
off the beaches and forming clouds. Whitecaps topped the large
waves. I removed my helmet and sand poured out of the vents. The
view was worth the trip, but the wind was relentless. And at that
point, the really fun part of the trip was over.
I cruised on to Parshall, where I had a quick lunch at a gas
station and filled my tank. I found some ear plugs to help protect
my ears from the wind, and continued back toward home.
To fight the wind, I leaned forward on my bike, my elbows resting
on my knees. This actually got quite comfortable and I enjoyed
the rest of the ride.
All told, I put about 450 miles on the motorcycle during the
weekend. The ride was a blast. If you ever pass through North
Dakota, try to work some of our scenic byways into your route.
They'll take you off the beaten path and expose you to the awesome
variety to be found in our borders.